Tuesday, July 13, 2010


Primorski - 282 Brighton Beach Avenue, Brooklyn (Between Brighton 2nd and 3rd Street) (Russian)
Primosky's has been around for 23 years. Nestled in the heart of Coney Island's Little Odessa, the restaurant has distinguished itself as one of the few Russian establishments to offer its patrons a taste of Russian and Georgian cuisine. Serving as both disco-nightclub and restaurant, the dining area for Primorsky is surprisingly classy and the menu impressively large, with options ranging from very cheap ($5.49 lunch specials featuring soup, salad and entree) to dinner banquets (priced around $40 per person.) For those who know what they want, a la carte is also available - featuring everything from the ubiquitous staples of borscht, dumplings and crepes to the less familiar Georgian specialities (which for me were the culinary draw.)

For those into exotic cuisine, there's alot here to try...offering unfamiliar names, and novel Georgian flavors. There's Satsivi -- featuring chunks of chicken bathed in a creamy walnut sauce. (A bit bony, reports my husband...though the sauce was rich and tasty.) Equally rich was the Kachapuri, a decadent stuffed pastry about the size and shape of a frisbee - the outer coating similar to a croissant, filled with thick, smooth Georgian cheese. (Oh God, if only they made one with soy cheese!) And there's stuff for vegans too - with large servings of Lavash Georgian bread, surprisingly tasty pickles (my actual highlight of the evening), rolled eggplant in walnut sauce and jonjoli salad - made from marinated acacia flowers. Not bad for a first trip...and there was definitely more to try - if only our stomachs had been a little bit bigger. The service? Pleasant. The bill? Not bad - with the tab running approximately $40 for four dishes and two Russian beers.

In Brooklyn, two other restaurants also offer Georgian food - well praised establishments known as Tbilisi and Piromansi. So will Primorski be my favorite of the three? Only time -- and experimentation -- will tell. But in the meantime, Primorski made for a pleasant introduction to a new culinary frontier. Uncle Vanya's, eat your heart out.

No comments:

Post a Comment